narcissus flower

Inside Light Poet’s narcissus

Regulating melanogenesis

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The story

The myth of a dangerous beauty

In its search for innovative cells with a lightening effect, Naolys has developed a new strain of cell from a plant species that is rarely used in cosmetics: poet’s narcissus. The white flowers of this early-flowering European perennial have a heady scent; the narcissus is a cousin of the daffodil, which has been recognized for its medicinal properties since ancient times. In Ovid’s Metamorphoses, Narcissus dies after becoming fixated with staring at his reflection in the water. Today, the narcissus is an ornamental flower appreciated for its elegant beauty and is still used in the creation of fragrances.





Because the complexion can become darker with age or after substantial exposure to UV light, particularly in people with darker skin, the challenge is to regulate melanogenesis in the epidermis. For a brighter, more uniform complexion with a lighter appearance.


Marketing claims

Lightening and anti-blemish

Helps to prevent and reduce brown spots.

Anti-ageing

Reduces deterioration of pigmentation due to sun exposure.

Brightness of the complexion

Reduces skin blemishes, helps develop a more uniform complexion.

Use advice

Cream, fluid, serum, balm, lotion, milk, foundation, concealer, etc. In any cosmetic or skincare product dedicated to making skin tone more uniform.

Key points

An active plant cell

Developed to deliver the highest amount of original active molecules.

A high tech natural ingredient

Created to preserve and improve the identity and the benefits of a natural product.

A general lightening effect

Decreases pigmentation, enhancing the complexion’s natural brightness.

Formulation
  • INCI name of cells: narcissus poeticus callus extract
  • Aspect: liquid
  • Form: 20% cells dispersed in 80% vegetal glycerin
  • Concentration: Starting at 0.5%
  • Dispersible: in any formulation

How it works ?

Inside Light Poet’s narcissus: reducing the production of melanin at its key stages


Melanocyte
Diagram

schema of melanocyte

Acting in the core of melanocyte

Skin pigmentation is due to the presence of melanin in the skin which is manufactured through a complex process. Melanin is a pigment that is synthesized in melanocytes, and then transferred into surrounding keratinocytes which transport it to the skin’s surface. In the skin on the face, there are about 2000 dendritic melanocytes per mm2, in the basal layer of the epidermis. They are evenly distributed among the keratinocytes and may transfer melanin to 36 surrounding keratinocytes. The melanocytes produce little sacks which contain melanin: the melanosomes.

Reducing melanin synthesis

The synthesis of melanin begins with the synthesis of tyrosine, an amino acid, supplied by the blood, which is catalysed by enzymes, including tyrosinase. Several chemical reactions then take place that result in the production of melanin. The synthesis takes place in the melanosomes, intracellular organelles in the melanocytes, created from various vesicles in the melanocytes. As the melanin is synthesized, different types of melanosomes form according to the quantity and type of melanin they produce. After these chemical reactions, the melanin is stored in the melanosomes until their internal structure is no longer visible.

Inside Light Poet’s narcissus reduces the synthesis of melanin in melanosomes by reducing both the synthesis of tyrosine and tyrosinase activity.

Reducing the transfer of melanosomes

The melanosomes are transported from the perinuclear region toward the tips of the dendrites. Having reached their final stage when they are filled with melanin, they migrate to the ends of the melanocytes’ dendrites. They then transfer to the keratinocytes through a mechanism that is not yet fully understood.

Inside Light Poet’s narcissus decreases the transfer of melanosomes to keratinocytes.



Due to its action during the different stages of melanogenesis, Inside Light Poet’s narcissus enables a reduction in blemishes and a lightening of skin tone.


Clinical study

Lightening of the surface of the skin on the face

Conditions of the study:
  • Mexametric measurement after 28 days of treatment, application of the product on the face twice a day.
  • Measurement of melanin index with Mexameter.
  • Emulsion with 0.5% of Inside Light Poet’s narcissus
Declaration of the women in the panel:
  • 90% declared that their complexion is lighter
  • 85% declared that their complexion is more uniform
  • 85% declared that their pigmentation imperfections have decreased

Mexametric measurement
(Melanin rate)

graph of mexametric measurement of melanin rate

Evolution of pigmentation imperfections
Before - after — 28 days

evolution of pigmentation imperfections
Study details

Testing for 28 days on 30 women from 33 to 64 years, with spots on the face.